Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Farewell to Bushbuckridge
After the braai, we traveled back to our homestays for one last night's sleep! We were all so exhausted from the long day, but instead of sleeping, my host mom insisted that we eat a SECOND dinner (she says it is tradition). I was so full at this point, but I decided to enjoy her delicious cooking for one last meal. Toward the end of our meal, she brought out a cake and gave each of us blue patterned cloths. These cloths are traditionally worn by women and can be creatively fashioned into all styles of dresses or skirts. In the picture below, My, Amaka, and I demonstrate its many versitile uses while posing with our host sisters! Notice the beautiful pattern of the fabric and the giant picture of a crocadile in the middle!
Our final farewells were said this morning as we rushed out the door with our suitcases, trying to catch the van in time. But, we made sure to exchange phone numbers and mailing addresses. Also, I am sure facebook will play a role in keeping us connected. I have begun brewing ideas about ways to get myself back to Bushbuckridge. I don't know when or how exactly, but I'm sure it will happen!
Monday, February 22, 2010
Safari Formal Saturday
On the actual safari, I was surprised to see one of my host sisters, Motswari, as one of the guides! She left for school the first weekend after I arrived at my homestay family's house. Apparently, she is interning at Kruger and she helped our group arrange to have a FREE safari (when most cost close to $100). I saw so many animals up close! It was my first time seeing hippos, although, they were mostly submerged in the river, and lions! Still, I was disappointed not to see a rhino. Supposedly, they are extremely rare to see on safaris. My favorite moment on the safari was seeing a family of baboons. The mother baboon was going about her routine as usual, with a little baby baboon on her back!
After two hours of driving around the beautiful African landscape, we held our own braai (aka barbeque) in the park. We cooked vegetables, chicken, sausage, and even impala (which we had just seen running around while on the safari...). As we prepared the meal, a friendly elephant came VERY close to the tiny fence that separates us from the wild. I felt quite small in comparison to his size and I was really hoping he wouldn't try to get any closer!All in all, it was a great outing! I spent the rest of the weekend writing two papers for a total of 19 handwritten pages. Ouch, my hand is tired! This morning, after two class periods at the wildlife college and time to work on my case study, I am thinking about how quickly my time in South Africa has passed. I would happily stay here longer! Tonight will be my last night sleeping at my host family's house. There will be a farewell braai with all the families and then I will pack my things. It will also be my last bucket shower, at least until I get to Vietnam. I look forward to taking a real shower over vacation, even though I have grown to love my bucket bath. Then, I depart for Johannesburg where everyone will disperse across the country for their Spring Break travels. It will be a sad farewell, but I am already getting excited about vacation and then, the prospects in Hanoi!
Friday, February 19, 2010
Case Studies and Cooking Lessons
On Monday, I had the opportunity to tour the local public hospital. This was an unforgettable experience. I visited the TB ward, the pediatrics ward, the maternal health ward, and the Step Down ward (which transitions patients out of the hospital). The TB ward was actually more of just the general area of the hospital, but for me, it was the most memorable. Going to the hospital in Bushbuckridge is unlike going to the hospital in the United States. The most striking difference is the lack of privacy. There were at least thirty beds lined up next to each other in one giant room. For some reason, this conjured up images of WWII hospitals that I've seen in the movies. With only about two feet separating the patients, large numbers of chatty visitors, and no air conditioning, I can't imagine this being a place conducive to regaining a state of health. I had also never seen people visibly suffering so much pain. It was hard to see, and now it is still hard to think about, but I hope that this experience brings a dose of reality to the subject I have chosen to study (though really, this entire abroad experience is bringing my studies to life!).
This week is particularly hectic because my stay in South Africa is quickly coming to a close. I will be saying goodbye to my beautiful host family on Tuesday and embarking on an adventurous Spring Break to Durban and Port St. Johns for a week. There are, however, some parts of my daily routine that I sincerely cherish, even though I have been extremely busy. The first thing, is the view of the road every morning. This is the one paved road through town and I walk here every day to catch the bus to school. Isn't it beautiful?
The next part of my experience that I will miss is simply being with my host family. I seem to learn something new every day! A lot of my learning has involved adventurous eating experiences (worms!) or new Tshonga phrases, and yesterday was no exception! My host mom taught us how to make peanut butter!
We roasted homegrown peanuts and heated cornmeal over the fire. Then, we ground the peanuts into a fine powder. We poured the cornmeal and peanut mixture (with a smidge of sugar) into a hollowed-out tree stump and used a wood stick to mash it together - think of it as the original version of a blender! I was surprised at how heavy the stick is and I most definitely woke up a little sore this morning...
Amaka, My, and I churned the mixture for at least an hour until it was the creamy texture of peanut butter and had a visible sheen of oil on the surface. We did a taste test and now I am convinced that store-bought peanut butter will just never be the same for me. My host mom insists that this homemade peanut butter will never expire. She says, "It will last for 100 years." She gave me specific instructions to take the peanut butter home to my family and to call her after I have made everyone taste it! Hopefully she's right about the expiration date...because it will have been in my luggage for a couple months before it makes it back to California...
Well, this has been a pretty thorough description of the last couple days. I am embarking on a safari tomorrow, where I hope I'll see a rhino (the only Big 5 animal I have yet to set eyes on!) - I will keep you all updated!
Monday, February 15, 2010
Peering Through God's Window
Another feature of the canyon is called The Three Rondavels. The Three Rondavels got their name because the three mountain peaks look like the tops of straw huts called "rondavels." You can see two of them in the picture below!
After spending a lot of time hiking and taking photos of the beautiful landscape, our group traveled to a place called Bourkes Luck Potholes. The potholes have been carved out of the canyon walls by the Blyde River. People traditionally come to Bourkes to throw coins in the potholes and marvel at the waterfalls crashing over the rocks. Before I left, my host sister warned me to watch out for mermaids! Apparently, these are not the nice kind of mermaids on Disney...The myth goes that when visitors stand on the bridge over the canyon, the mermaids lure them in by making their heart's desires appear down by the water. Greedy people subsequently fall to their death. Needless to say, I took extra precautions when crossing the bridge! I spent the rest of the day swimming in the water and relaxing before we got hit by a surprise thunder and lightning storm! The cool, wet weather was a welcome change to the continuously hot days in Bushbuckridge. After tromping back to the bus, we were taken to a delicious meal at Harrie's Pancake house, a famous Dutch pancake restaurant! This was, by far, my favorite day in South Africa so far!
Friday, February 12, 2010
State of the Nation
Mandela is ninety-two years old and has lived through the most tumultuous time in South African history. He managed to make an incredible impact on the country, despite being imprisoned for twenty-seven years. At the Apartheid museum in Johannesburg, a special exhibit on Mandela's life took me two hours to walk through - he has accomplished so much! So, in recognition of the anniversary of this momentuous, watershed moment in South African history, I was expecting an equally moving and insightful speech from Zuma.
Unfortunately, Zuma's speech did not have the immaculate stage presence of a typical speech by President Obama. In fact, at some moments, I thought he was reading the speech for the very first time! The majority of his address was focused on listing the goals of his administration. He mentioned setting climate change goals, expanding hospitals, increasing broadband speed, and several other issues. He addressed unemployment concerns because of the current crisis in the country - the unemployment rate is as high as 40%. In Bushbuckridge, it is a shocking 80%. But, his statements drew audible groans from the audience because decreasing unemployment had been his main campaign platform - and so far, nothing has changed for the better.
I was particularly disappointed that Zuma only briefly touched upon the HIV/AIDS issue. South Africa stands in a unique position where it is the country that receives the most financial support to treat HIV/AIDS, yet continues to have the highest infection rate. South Africa, as a regional economic power, confronts additional problems because it struggles with both communicable disease, often associated with developing countries, and noncommunicable disease, often associated with developed countries. With a huge divide between the public and private sectors, limited access to healthcare in rural communities, and general economic inequality, the country has many challenges ahead in order to provide adequate healthcare for all of its citizens.
An interesting context to the State of the Nation address, is the recent scandal surrounding President Zuma and his polygamous marraiges. I have already lost count of how many wives he has! In the few weeks since I have been in South Africa, the news headlines have announced that he has even had children outside of his many marraiges. The count is currently at 22 children, and increasing every day as more information is uncovered. Public health officials are concerned about what kind of message his practices are sending to the general public, especially in relation to the HIV/AIDS epidemic and other problems associated with unsafe sex practices.
Some of the students on my program have selected to use the current events surrounding President Zuma as a case study in health behaviors. It should be interesting to see how that turns out. I have chosen to do a case study on how youth obtain health information. Does their knowledge about health, particularly sexual health, conflict with other sources of health information such as their family, school, peers, church, or the media? I will keep you posted on what I find!
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
How to Eat Fried Worms
Eating worms comes with a certain set of challenges. The first challenge is finding out exactly how the worms found their way onto my plate. When I casually asked my host mom if she purchased the worms at the market today, she began to laugh hysterically. It turns out, she merely went outside and picked the worms straight off the trees in the backyard. This was probably not the answer I wanted to hear, but I was still resolved to taste this delicacy!
The second challenge is figuring out exactly what to expect. My host sister demonstrated eating one of the worms. She reassured me that it was chewy and quite tasty. In retrospect, I have to say, I completely disagree.
The third challenge is actually picking up the worm. They look extremely intimidating. If I wouldn't touch one when it's alive, why would I do the same when it's dead? In the picture above, Amaka and I are looking hesitantly at our options. Even after overcoming my fear, I was still sweating with nervousness as I carefully selected my feast. I made sure to choose the one with fewest legs that I could potentially swallow in one bite. Finally, I made my choice! The final challenge is to actually move the worm from hand to mouth. The family had to do a motivational countdown in order for me to gather the courage to eat the worm. And then, I did it! I popped the worm in my mouth and all was going well until...there was a giant crunch and worm juice filled my mouth. Ick! The crunchiness, I am told, is from the caterpillar's legs and head. The worm tasted salty. That's the best way I can describe it. I was unable to swallow it, making it even worse. But after a few gulps of mango juice, I finally finished it! I feel like I have accomplished an important milestone in my life, but I have decided that eating a worm once is MORE than enough. That is, until next time it's for dinner...
Avuxeni!
Person 1: Avuxeni (Good morning)
Person 2: Aye (...No direct translation, but acknowledgment of the person)
Person 1: Minjhani? (How are you?)
Person 2: Na mina, hi pfukile. Na wena? (I am fine, and you?)
After learning these phrases, I am greeting everybody I see! The people in Bushbuckridge are extremely friendly and it makes them grin when I attempt to speak Tsonga. Even when I speak English, they wonder which language I am speaking (according to the man selling fresh bread at the bakery, we speak much to fast!).
I am now comfortably settled in to my homestay. My host mom (in the picture above) and her daughters have welcomed us (myself, Amaka, and My) into the family! The younger daughter is seventeen years old. She was home for the weekend, but is leaving for college in Pretoria for the rest of the time I will be here. The three of us from IHP sleep in the same room. We take bucket showers outside twice a day (which is completely necessary because of the heat and dust throughout the day!). The bucket shower is one of my favorite times of the day. There is a soundtrack of crowing roosters or chirping crickets, depending on the time of day and the water is always so refreshing after a day of 90+ degree weather! The toilet is a few hundred feet from the house, but at night, we are told to just go to the bathroom in a bucket inside the bedroom. None of us have been brave enough to use the bucket yet...
Despite the different toilet and shower situation, I feel so comfortable here in Bushbuckridge (specifically, I am in a village called Islington). A typical day for me begins at 6am, the only time that it is acceptably cool outside. I go for a short run to the homestay house where other IHP friends are staying. I quickly say hello to them and play with their one year old host brother before running back to my house. Then, I take my morning bucket shower (washing my hair is the biggest challenge!) and get ready for the day. Breakfast normally consists of sour porridge, which tastes great when you add a touch of peanut butter, and fresh bread. I eat a mango straight off the tree as I walk to the bus stop where I catch the van that takes me to the Southern African Wildlife College. As I walk to the bus stop, I see all the children heading to school in their plaid uniforms and they all shyly wave to us. The ride to school is another best part of my day. It takes about forty-five minutes to drive over the rocky streets and often we are delayed...the other day we had to stop and wait for a herd of giraffes to move out of the street! Because we drive partially into Kruger National Park each time we go to and from school, it feels like a safari! We see elephants nearly every day.
This is my general routine, but many times we do things completely out of the ordinary! On Sunday, I went to the Maholoholo Wildlife Rehab Center and saw lions, leopards, vultures, and many other animals. I even pet a cheetah! I have photographic evidence to prove it! We have visited the market in Acornhoek several times where I buy the fruits and vegetables for my packed lunches. I even fetched water for the family today and learned that pushing a wheelbarrow is much, much harder than it looks!
The best excursion was when I went to another homestay family's house to celebrate my friend Sophie's birthday. The birthday tradition in the village is to douse the birthday girl or boy with buckets of water. Needless to say, Sophie got drenched from head to toe! At her house, we sat in a circle outside with the family and each kid performed a dance. I learned a few traditional Tsonga dances as well as some of the modern "club" dance moves like "the survivor" and "the runner." The evening quickly turned into a cultural exchange when the kids started begging us to perform "American dances." We were stumped on that challenge, so we ended up teaching them the infamous "Soldier Boy" routine. Afterwards, Swati danced Indian Garba, I did irish dance, and Amaka did traditional Nigerian dance for the enthralled crowd. It ended up being an incredibly fun night filled with laughter.
Academically, the program is starting to pick up pace. I have a written assignment due almost every day and our case studies are not far in the horizon. For Spring break, I have decided to go to Durban and then travel to Port St Johns in the Wild Coast region of South Africa where there are beautiful, secluded beaches and a ton of backpacking opportunities. It sounds like the ideal vacation to me!
Friday, February 5, 2010
Bushbuckridge Begins!
The group is staying at SAWC for two nights as we adjust to life in the region of Bushbuckridge, South Africa. On our drive, I saw an elephant on the side of the road. The elephant had crashed through the fence that protects the roadway just so he could get to one, delicious-looking tree! I was so excited to see the wildlife, that is, until the ranger at the college gave us an "orientation" which consisted of listing off everything that can either poison us or eat us alive. I am still looking forward to seeing zebras and giraffes, but I have to say, hearing the lions roaring outside my bedroom window each night has not been the most settling experience...
For two nights, I am rooming with Swati in the dorms at SAWC before we prepare to meet our homestay families. Later this afternoon we will have a welcome braai (so many braais!) and be paired with our families. I already know that I will be living with a primary school teacher and her four children (although, her children are all in their twenties!). I can't wait to meet them! I was already informally introduced to Thema, my host sister, because she is coordinating the homestays in Bushbuckridge for IHP.
Everyday we have been eating delicious South African food - mainly squash, cooked vegetables, spicy sauces, beans, pap (it looks like mashed potatoes, but it is made of corn and has an interesting texture), and SO MUCH MEAT! Chicken is the main staple here, but we've also eaten plenty of beef and lamb. Yesterday morning I got a huge scoop of chicken livers on my plate right next to my scrambled eggs. Needless to say, I didn't brave the livers, but for lunch that day I was courageous and tasted chicken gizzard! I'm really proud of that, but I can't say I'll eat it again...
Well, I'm off to meet my homestay family! Thankfully, I have more regular internet access now that I'll be coming to school here at SAWC everyday. But, I'll be commuting from the village from now on. And who knows what I'll run into on my way - hopefully there won't be any encounters with lions!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Jolling in Johannesburg
On our first day, we headed to the Apartheid Museum. The museum was enormous and I didn't even come close to getting through all of it. But, I did manage to learn a lot about what happened in South Africa during the Apartheid. We also got the chance to speak with four panelists who all came from different areas of the Apartheid struggle. One man was one of the original leaders of the Black Consciousness movement, another man was a preacher in a mixed race church, one woman was an activist for the cause, and one man was the Minister of Police in the Apartheid government. What is most interesting about the man who was Minister of Police (about equivalent to a Secretary of Agriculture or something like that in the US - people know who he is) is that he was the only government member to apply for amnesty at the Truth and Reconciliation Comission (TRC) while also expressing remorse. Each story was amazing to hear, yet everyone made it clear that South Africa still has a long way to go to reach true equality. Right now, there is still huge gaps in economic inequalities. In some areas, like Bushbuckridge, the unemployment rate is as high as 80%. I imagine that this is something we will be exploring as our classes start up again...
On a visit to Soweto, the largest township on the African continent, I was able to see the economic effects that the panelist spoke of. Soweto is known for it's riots during the anti-Apartheid struggle and for the famous people who emerged from this community, especially Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. In 1976, school children protested the Bantu Education Act and although it was intended to be peaceful, it escalated into an extremely violent situation when the police responded with gunfire. At the Hector Pietrson memorial, we learned all about that day in history because it marked a turning point in the fight against Apartheid. After seeing the museum, we ate lunch at a local restaurant (it took three whole hours - teaching us a lesson about South African time) and walked through the streets. We even played soccer with a group of children!
On Sunday, I woke up prepared to go to church nearby. Because of a turn of events (the bus drivers didn't wake up in time...) my plans changed and I ended up going to an open-air market. It ended up being an incredible experience! I bought a few souvenirs, but the stands sold a whole variety of things - scarves, wood carvings, jewelry, and musical instruments, just to name a few. I had the most incredibly delicious falafel (yes, I know it's not a traditional South African dish, but it was delicious none the less!) and cinnamon covered nuts (which I bought from one of the vendors outside). While I was shopping, I caught a video of a group of men doing traditional Zulu dancing!
We had thunderstorms nearly every day while we were in Johannesburg. Fortunately, it would only rain for only a short time and then turn back to the beautiful sunny weather that I had expected! Every morning, I wake up at 6am to jog up and down the enormous hill next to Wilgespruit. One morning the entire group went for a hike to the top of a nearby mountain and then we tried to reach Nelson Mandela's caves (unfortunately, trees had grown over the entrance and we couldn't get inside). I am really loving the nature here - every breath of air feels so fresh!
The first two things I noticed about Africa, immediately after I left the airport, were the sound of insects buzzing in the meadows (it was so loud, it even drowned out the sound of freeway traffic!) and the deep-red color of the soil. Johannesburg is currently preparing to host the Soccer World Cup in June, so there is a bunch of activity surrounding that. There are signs everywhere for it!
I am so happy to be here. We had no classes during our stay in Johannesburg, so it sort of felt like a vacation compared to the stressfully packed days in DC. It is a welcome change! The staff at Wilgespruit threw us a farewell braai (another word for barbeque) where we ate great food and danced and sang all night. It was a great conclusion to my stay in Johannesburg. We'll be back in Wilgespruit for our last night in South Africa, but that is a long ways away - I still have Bushbuckridge and spring break (wherever that will lead me...Durban? Cape Town?)...stay tuned!
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
The "L" Word in DC
I began my abroad program in a more familiar setting than most. In fact, I had already spent a good amount of time in this city. Because of this, I experienced relatively little culture shock - beyond the fact that I had to adjust to living virtually without any personal space. There are 34 students in my IHP program and we all eat, sleep, and attend classes in the same miniscule Quaker hostel. Besides a noticeable shortage of bathrooms (29 girls to 2 bathrooms - not an ideal ratio!), the accommodations were nice and conveniently located just a few blocks behind the capitol building.
The arc of our program began with a service project on Martin Luther King Jr. Day. My group headed to a transitional housing center for youth. I expected to do glamorous work, like painting walls or building a fence. But instead, my assignment was to alphabetize the bookshelves and organize closets. For me, it is a personal challenge to stay neat and keep a tidy room, so doing this project felt like a true personal sacrifice. Upon reflection, I believe that this is indeed one of the most valuable kinds of service work.
Our goal for the next portion of the program was to identify the difference between social service and social change. But, public health goals could not be accomplished without both. We heard lectures by guest speakers from places such as the Center for Global Development, the Urban Policy Institute (where we heard an incredible lecture on the current health care legislation), MetroTeen AIDS, So Others Might Eat (SOME), and the World Bank. One day was specifically geared toward NGO visits. My group visited the Human Rights Campaign and WEAVE Inc (Women Empowered Against Violence), where we interviewed people to learn about the history, struggles, and future trajectory of the organizations. Coincedentally, on NGO day, I spent my free afternoon visiting Liz at the LIFT National Office. She gave me a guided tour of the office. It was wonderful seeing the center of operations for LIFT - now I have a better sense of how things work at the top!
I spent my other free time (which was very, very limited - the program kept us quite busy!) seeing friends in DC. Some of those friends even came to visit from far away places like Boston! I got to see Andrew, Mike, and Ben, along with a few others. It was good to get a taste of Tufts life during my second week in DC - it came at the perfect timing, just as I was starting to miss it!
On the morning of my lobbying experience, I got dressed in business clothes and studied the text of the bill I would be discussing - The International Protecting Girls by Preventing Child Marraige Act. This act would let the US analyze its current programming abroad and redistribute money to the programs that work best. The idea is that early marraige leads to health problems for women, can result in domestic abuse, and prevents girls from completing the education. Essentially, girls have no chance of breaking the cycle of poverty unless they are given educational opportunities. I lobbied for the bill with four California legislators - Rep. Brian Bilbray, Sen. Diane Feinstein, and Rep. Radanavich (from Fresno). I was accompanied by Amaka, Thuy Ann, and Francis. We are the only Californians on the trip, so we were able to see our own representatives.
Brian Bilbray's office was covered in photos of southern California - I have to admit, it made me a little homesick for a moment! When we sat down with the office staff member, he seemed to have a pre-determined opinion on whether or not (NOT) Bilbray was going to support the bill. But, after a little name-dropping and a bit of persuasion, I could tell that he was warming up to the idea. I have to say, I thought we were pretty darn convincing! Who knows, maybe Bilbray will end up co-sponsoring the bill!
Coming out of the meeting, I felt incredibly empowered. I loved the feeling of having spoken on behalf of something that could potentially improve the lives of women around the globe. The other meetings went in a similar manner (but, Sen. Feinstein was already a sponsor of the bill - all we had to do was thank her!). My favorite part of the day was simply walking around the Senate Building and looking important. I ate lunch at the cafeteria and marveled about how I was rubbing elbows with many important decision-makers. I even said hello to Sen. Barbara Boxer. The craziest moment was when I walked past the elevators and saw my friend Maddie! That was a pleasant surprise!
All in all, I can't wait to return to DC. I have literally fallen in the "L" word (LOVE) with this city! Maybe summer 2010...?