Farewell to Bushbuckridge

Last night, our farewell braai was filled with spirit and energy. Traditional dancers performed for us, and really got the crowd up and moving! By the end of their set, everyone had grabbed the hand of their host siblings or parents and were out on the dance floor! By the time we managed to sit down to eat, it was already past dark. A surprise rainstorm caught us in the middle of our festivities, but it definitely did not dampen the mood (though, it did make our rice a little soggy). In fact, rain is a huge blessing for the Bushbuckridge area, which is always fighting the potential for drought. The available natural resources of the area cannot support the growing population. Bushbuckridge was originally established by the Apartheid government as a resettlement area for black South Africans. For this reason, the inorganic formation of the community has taken a harsh and unexpected toll on the land over the past few decades. Water is something I've been trying hard to conserve since I've been here. If there is one thing I can recommend to water-conscious San Diegans, it is to take bucket baths and to wash your clothes by hand. Imagine, if everyone only used one liter to bathe, rather than twenty gallons for a five minute shower!

After the braai, we traveled back to our homestays for one last night's sleep! We were all so exhausted from the long day, but instead of sleeping, my host mom insisted that we eat a SECOND dinner (she says it is tradition). I was so full at this point, but I decided to enjoy her delicious cooking for one last meal. Toward the end of our meal, she brought out a cake and gave each of us blue patterned cloths. These cloths are traditionally worn by women and can be creatively fashioned into all styles of dresses or skirts. In the picture below, My, Amaka, and I demonstrate its many versitile uses while posing with our host sisters! Notice the beautiful pattern of the fabric and the giant picture of a crocadile in the middle!

Our final farewells were said this morning as we rushed out the door with our suitcases, trying to catch the van in time. But, we made sure to exchange phone numbers and mailing addresses. Also, I am sure facebook will play a role in keeping us connected. I have begun brewing ideas about ways to get myself back to Bushbuckridge. I don't know when or how exactly, but I'm sure it will happen!

Safari Formal Saturday

As we say at IHP, "Safari Formal" is not just a dress code, it's a lifestyle. On Saturday, the group got the chance to actually go on a safari and whip out the khaki shorts, forest green tops, and tevas we've all had stored away deep in our suitcases. We set out for this adventure at 6am, but by the time the vans made it to the safari starting point in Kruger National Park, it was already 10am - not because the park was far away, but because we kept having to wait for herds of elephants to cross the road! The trip seemed like a safari in itself, as do most of our commutes to and from the Wildlife College for classes. On this particular day, the weather was a little cooler, giving us brief relief from the 90 degree days of the past week. In the morning, it rained for a short while. I never knew it was possible for it to rain AND be sunny at the same time. The result was the most beautiful rainbow I had ever seen! It was actually a double rainbow that arched completely across the sky like a bridge, where I could see both the beginning and ending points (Unfortunately, no sighting of a pot of gold...). It was a great start to the day!
On the actual safari, I was surprised to see one of my host sisters, Motswari, as one of the guides! She left for school the first weekend after I arrived at my homestay family's house. Apparently, she is interning at Kruger and she helped our group arrange to have a FREE safari (when most cost close to $100). I saw so many animals up close! It was my first time seeing hippos, although, they were mostly submerged in the river, and lions! Still, I was disappointed not to see a rhino. Supposedly, they are extremely rare to see on safaris. My favorite moment on the safari was seeing a family of baboons. The mother baboon was going about her routine as usual, with a little baby baboon on her back!

After two hours of driving around the beautiful African landscape, we held our own braai (aka barbeque) in the park. We cooked vegetables, chicken, sausage, and even impala (which we had just seen running around while on the safari...). As we prepared the meal, a friendly elephant came VERY close to the tiny fence that separates us from the wild. I felt quite small in comparison to his size and I was really hoping he wouldn't try to get any closer!All in all, it was a great outing! I spent the rest of the weekend writing two papers for a total of 19 handwritten pages. Ouch, my hand is tired! This morning, after two class periods at the wildlife college and time to work on my case study, I am thinking about how quickly my time in South Africa has passed. I would happily stay here longer! Tonight will be my last night sleeping at my host family's house. There will be a farewell braai with all the families and then I will pack my things. It will also be my last bucket shower, at least until I get to Vietnam. I look forward to taking a real shower over vacation, even though I have grown to love my bucket bath. Then, I depart for Johannesburg where everyone will disperse across the country for their Spring Break travels. It will be a sad farewell, but I am already getting excited about vacation and then, the prospects in Hanoi!

Case Studies and Cooking Lessons

It feels like the week has flown by. I am buried in readings, busy writing papers for all my classes, and attending multiple site visits, as well as being out and about in town conducting case study interviews. In my case study, I am trying to find out where people access their health information and which avenue of education (family, church, school, clinics, peers, or media) is the most influencial in health decision-making. Particularly, I am focusing on sexual health education, and by the end of the project, I hope to be able to make specific recommendations for improvement in this realm. Much of the information I have been learning is shocking. In Bushbuckridge, sexual education begins in grade 10, when the students are about fifteen years old. Let's just say, this is problematic when girls are frequently becoming pregnant at ages nine and ten!

On Monday, I had the opportunity to tour the local public hospital. This was an unforgettable experience. I visited the TB ward, the pediatrics ward, the maternal health ward, and the Step Down ward (which transitions patients out of the hospital). The TB ward was actually more of just the general area of the hospital, but for me, it was the most memorable. Going to the hospital in Bushbuckridge is unlike going to the hospital in the United States. The most striking difference is the lack of privacy. There were at least thirty beds lined up next to each other in one giant room. For some reason, this conjured up images of WWII hospitals that I've seen in the movies. With only about two feet separating the patients, large numbers of chatty visitors, and no air conditioning, I can't imagine this being a place conducive to regaining a state of health. I had also never seen people visibly suffering so much pain. It was hard to see, and now it is still hard to think about, but I hope that this experience brings a dose of reality to the subject I have chosen to study (though really, this entire abroad experience is bringing my studies to life!).

This week is particularly hectic because my stay in South Africa is quickly coming to a close. I will be saying goodbye to my beautiful host family on Tuesday and embarking on an adventurous Spring Break to Durban and Port St. Johns for a week. There are, however, some parts of my daily routine that I sincerely cherish, even though I have been extremely busy. The first thing, is the view of the road every morning. This is the one paved road through town and I walk here every day to catch the bus to school. Isn't it beautiful?

The next part of my experience that I will miss is simply being with my host family. I seem to learn something new every day! A lot of my learning has involved adventurous eating experiences (worms!) or new Tshonga phrases, and yesterday was no exception! My host mom taught us how to make peanut butter!

We roasted homegrown peanuts and heated cornmeal over the fire. Then, we ground the peanuts into a fine powder. We poured the cornmeal and peanut mixture (with a smidge of sugar) into a hollowed-out tree stump and used a wood stick to mash it together - think of it as the original version of a blender! I was surprised at how heavy the stick is and I most definitely woke up a little sore this morning...

Amaka, My, and I churned the mixture for at least an hour until it was the creamy texture of peanut butter and had a visible sheen of oil on the surface. We did a taste test and now I am convinced that store-bought peanut butter will just never be the same for me. My host mom insists that this homemade peanut butter will never expire. She says, "It will last for 100 years." She gave me specific instructions to take the peanut butter home to my family and to call her after I have made everyone taste it! Hopefully she's right about the expiration date...because it will have been in my luggage for a couple months before it makes it back to California...

Well, this has been a pretty thorough description of the last couple days. I am embarking on a safari tomorrow, where I hope I'll see a rhino (the only Big 5 animal I have yet to set eyes on!) - I will keep you all updated!

Peering Through God's Window

On Saturday, I took a brief daytrip to God's Window. Believe it or not, God's Window is an actual place. To get there, I hiked up the side of the Drakensburg mountains until I was above the misty layer of clouds. From this vantage point, I was literally looking down at the clouds, as if I was in heaven! Then, our group hiked up through the tropical region, which is a huge contrast from the dry, dusty conditions I have gotten used to in Bushbuckridge. Surprisingly, the mountains are only a short drive from my homestay, but in many ways, it feels like a whole different world. When we traveled to Blyde River Canyon, I sat on a rock that jutted out over the river. I was praying that I wouldn't fall! But it was worth it being able to see the shapes of the canyon walls and the river snaking for miles!
Another feature of the canyon is called The Three Rondavels. The Three Rondavels got their name because the three mountain peaks look like the tops of straw huts called "rondavels." You can see two of them in the picture below!



After spending a lot of time hiking and taking photos of the beautiful landscape, our group traveled to a place called Bourkes Luck Potholes. The potholes have been carved out of the canyon walls by the Blyde River. People traditionally come to Bourkes to throw coins in the potholes and marvel at the waterfalls crashing over the rocks. Before I left, my host sister warned me to watch out for mermaids! Apparently, these are not the nice kind of mermaids on Disney...The myth goes that when visitors stand on the bridge over the canyon, the mermaids lure them in by making their heart's desires appear down by the water. Greedy people subsequently fall to their death. Needless to say, I took extra precautions when crossing the bridge! I spent the rest of the day swimming in the water and relaxing before we got hit by a surprise thunder and lightning storm! The cool, wet weather was a welcome change to the continuously hot days in Bushbuckridge. After tromping back to the bus, we were taken to a delicious meal at Harrie's Pancake house, a famous Dutch pancake restaurant! This was, by far, my favorite day in South Africa so far!

State of the Nation

Last Thursday night, President Zuma gave his State of the Nation address to the South African people. Coincidentally, his speech fell on the same day as the twentieth anniversary of Nelson Mandela's release from prison on Robben Island. Mandela attended the ceremony and was mentioned numerous times throughout the seventy minute long speech.

Mandela is ninety-two years old and has lived through the most tumultuous time in South African history. He managed to make an incredible impact on the country, despite being imprisoned for twenty-seven years. At the Apartheid museum in Johannesburg, a special exhibit on Mandela's life took me two hours to walk through - he has accomplished so much! So, in recognition of the anniversary of this momentuous, watershed moment in South African history, I was expecting an equally moving and insightful speech from Zuma.

Unfortunately, Zuma's speech did not have the immaculate stage presence of a typical speech by President Obama. In fact, at some moments, I thought he was reading the speech for the very first time! The majority of his address was focused on listing the goals of his administration. He mentioned setting climate change goals, expanding hospitals, increasing broadband speed, and several other issues. He addressed unemployment concerns because of the current crisis in the country - the unemployment rate is as high as 40%. In Bushbuckridge, it is a shocking 80%. But, his statements drew audible groans from the audience because decreasing unemployment had been his main campaign platform - and so far, nothing has changed for the better.

I was particularly disappointed that Zuma only briefly touched upon the HIV/AIDS issue. South Africa stands in a unique position where it is the country that receives the most financial support to treat HIV/AIDS, yet continues to have the highest infection rate. South Africa, as a regional economic power, confronts additional problems because it struggles with both communicable disease, often associated with developing countries, and noncommunicable disease, often associated with developed countries. With a huge divide between the public and private sectors, limited access to healthcare in rural communities, and general economic inequality, the country has many challenges ahead in order to provide adequate healthcare for all of its citizens.

An interesting context to the State of the Nation address, is the recent scandal surrounding President Zuma and his polygamous marraiges. I have already lost count of how many wives he has! In the few weeks since I have been in South Africa, the news headlines have announced that he has even had children outside of his many marraiges. The count is currently at 22 children, and increasing every day as more information is uncovered. Public health officials are concerned about what kind of message his practices are sending to the general public, especially in relation to the HIV/AIDS epidemic and other problems associated with unsafe sex practices.

Some of the students on my program have selected to use the current events surrounding President Zuma as a case study in health behaviors. It should be interesting to see how that turns out. I have chosen to do a case study on how youth obtain health information. Does their knowledge about health, particularly sexual health, conflict with other sources of health information such as their family, school, peers, church, or the media? I will keep you posted on what I find!

How to Eat Fried Worms

Or, rather, how to eat spiky, palm-sized, brightly colored, steamed caterpillars topped with a light tomato garnish. That was probably the last thing I expected to find in the pot for dinner last night. I was told that this particular dish is a South African delicacy. So, of course, I absolutely HAD to eat it!
Eating worms comes with a certain set of challenges. The first challenge is finding out exactly how the worms found their way onto my plate. When I casually asked my host mom if she purchased the worms at the market today, she began to laugh hysterically. It turns out, she merely went outside and picked the worms straight off the trees in the backyard. This was probably not the answer I wanted to hear, but I was still resolved to taste this delicacy!

The second challenge is figuring out exactly what to expect. My host sister demonstrated eating one of the worms. She reassured me that it was chewy and quite tasty. In retrospect, I have to say, I completely disagree.

The third challenge is actually picking up the worm. They look extremely intimidating. If I wouldn't touch one when it's alive, why would I do the same when it's dead? In the picture above, Amaka and I are looking hesitantly at our options. Even after overcoming my fear, I was still sweating with nervousness as I carefully selected my feast. I made sure to choose the one with fewest legs that I could potentially swallow in one bite. Finally, I made my choice! The final challenge is to actually move the worm from hand to mouth. The family had to do a motivational countdown in order for me to gather the courage to eat the worm. And then, I did it! I popped the worm in my mouth and all was going well until...there was a giant crunch and worm juice filled my mouth. Ick! The crunchiness, I am told, is from the caterpillar's legs and head. The worm tasted salty. That's the best way I can describe it. I was unable to swallow it, making it even worse. But after a few gulps of mango juice, I finally finished it! I feel like I have accomplished an important milestone in my life, but I have decided that eating a worm once is MORE than enough. That is, until next time it's for dinner...

Avuxeni!

Today I had my first official Tsonga lesson. My host family has been teaching me words here and there, mostly about relevant things like the words for spider and frog. There is something funny about saying, "I killed a puma with my bare hands." Just in case you were wondering, puma means spider in Tsonga! Another interesting aspect of the Tsonga language is the extensive greeting. It consists of about four phrases exchanged between two people who meet each other in passing on the street. It goes something like this (secretly, I had to check my notes in order to get the spelling right...):

Person 1: Avuxeni (Good morning)
Person 2: Aye (...No direct translation, but acknowledgment of the person)
Person 1: Minjhani? (How are you?)
Person 2: Na mina, hi pfukile. Na wena? (I am fine, and you?)

After learning these phrases, I am greeting everybody I see! The people in Bushbuckridge are extremely friendly and it makes them grin when I attempt to speak Tsonga. Even when I speak English, they wonder which language I am speaking (according to the man selling fresh bread at the bakery, we speak much to fast!).

I am now comfortably settled in to my homestay. My host mom (in the picture above) and her daughters have welcomed us (myself, Amaka, and My) into the family! The younger daughter is seventeen years old. She was home for the weekend, but is leaving for college in Pretoria for the rest of the time I will be here. The three of us from IHP sleep in the same room. We take bucket showers outside twice a day (which is completely necessary because of the heat and dust throughout the day!). The bucket shower is one of my favorite times of the day. There is a soundtrack of crowing roosters or chirping crickets, depending on the time of day and the water is always so refreshing after a day of 90+ degree weather! The toilet is a few hundred feet from the house, but at night, we are told to just go to the bathroom in a bucket inside the bedroom. None of us have been brave enough to use the bucket yet...

Despite the different toilet and shower situation, I feel so comfortable here in Bushbuckridge (specifically, I am in a village called Islington). A typical day for me begins at 6am, the only time that it is acceptably cool outside. I go for a short run to the homestay house where other IHP friends are staying. I quickly say hello to them and play with their one year old host brother before running back to my house. Then, I take my morning bucket shower (washing my hair is the biggest challenge!) and get ready for the day. Breakfast normally consists of sour porridge, which tastes great when you add a touch of peanut butter, and fresh bread. I eat a mango straight off the tree as I walk to the bus stop where I catch the van that takes me to the Southern African Wildlife College. As I walk to the bus stop, I see all the children heading to school in their plaid uniforms and they all shyly wave to us. The ride to school is another best part of my day. It takes about forty-five minutes to drive over the rocky streets and often we are delayed...the other day we had to stop and wait for a herd of giraffes to move out of the street! Because we drive partially into Kruger National Park each time we go to and from school, it feels like a safari! We see elephants nearly every day.

I've seen two baboons, dozens of giraffe and zebras (even a baby!), and hundreds of impala! Usually the animals are within arms reach. Remember, this is all without a fence separating us! Once I get to the college, I take one or two classes. Our afternoons are usually at a site visit. Yesterday we went to visit a traditional healer who told us about his remedies for all kinds of illnesses. It was certainly a fascinating experience that I wouldn't get anywhere else! After school, we head back to our homestays where we sit outside and chat with our families or do homework. Dinner is usually served around 8pm. By then, it's time to take our evening baths and then hop into bed for another full day!

This is my general routine, but many times we do things completely out of the ordinary! On Sunday, I went to the Maholoholo Wildlife Rehab Center and saw lions, leopards, vultures, and many other animals. I even pet a cheetah! I have photographic evidence to prove it! We have visited the market in Acornhoek several times where I buy the fruits and vegetables for my packed lunches. I even fetched water for the family today and learned that pushing a wheelbarrow is much, much harder than it looks!

The best excursion was when I went to another homestay family's house to celebrate my friend Sophie's birthday. The birthday tradition in the village is to douse the birthday girl or boy with buckets of water. Needless to say, Sophie got drenched from head to toe! At her house, we sat in a circle outside with the family and each kid performed a dance. I learned a few traditional Tsonga dances as well as some of the modern "club" dance moves like "the survivor" and "the runner." The evening quickly turned into a cultural exchange when the kids started begging us to perform "American dances." We were stumped on that challenge, so we ended up teaching them the infamous "Soldier Boy" routine. Afterwards, Swati danced Indian Garba, I did irish dance, and Amaka did traditional Nigerian dance for the enthralled crowd. It ended up being an incredibly fun night filled with laughter.

Academically, the program is starting to pick up pace. I have a written assignment due almost every day and our case studies are not far in the horizon. For Spring break, I have decided to go to Durban and then travel to Port St Johns in the Wild Coast region of South Africa where there are beautiful, secluded beaches and a ton of backpacking opportunities. It sounds like the ideal vacation to me!